Charles Kleibacker was a fashion designer in New York City from 1960 to 1986, a time when fashion styles reflected the turmoil that occurred in society throughout those years. However, through it all Charles maintained an individual design aesthetic – soft figure-flattering bias dresses with a classic look that could be worn for years. This earned him a devoted clientele of women who purchased his designer ready-to-wear garments at top stores in New York, or were custom fit in his workshop. Because of his preference for and skill with bias, he became known as the Master of the Bias Cut.
Trained in French couturier methods of construction, Kleibacker's garments were all produced with the highest standards in fabric, construction and fit. Bias is known to be the most difficult 'cut' to work with when constructing garments. Charles experimented until he figured out how to solve the challenges, and then trained his workers in the exacting techniques required.
Having first a career in journalism, Charles' path to fashion was in "no way normal" and his approach to his business and the industry was not the norm either. Starting small, through much determination and sacrifice, he overcame many obstacles to produce garments engineered for an enduring and graceful artistry.
The "bias secrets" that Charles laboriously learned were never closely guarded. An educator at heart, he taught his "secrets" to packed audiences in national tours targeted to the home-sewing market. He also shared his love of historic clothing and engineering garments cut on the bias with fashion design students in many college programs.
Kleibacker's path stands as an excellent case study for students. He also tirelessly worked to preserve the techniques that go into couture quality garments. The "secrets" and the experiences of Kleibacker contained in this paper are an informative story for fashion students and lovers of fashion alike. An American original, unique in his approach to design, his ready-to-wear business, sharing his knowledge, and individual design aesthetic, Kleibacker stands out as a pinnacle of the fashion world in his artistry and drive for perfection.